Grey Coverage Perfection - Professional Colorists
Uncovering the Mystery of Perfect Grey Coverage
Being famous on social media is like being rich in monopoly-
it only matters to those who play the game.
I preface this blog that way because you look at many hair color media posts with bright neons or perfect pastels but I’ve yet to see one touting “ grey coverage “ formulas with before and after.
This may not be work perceived as “fun” color but here’s the reality - 75% of women color their hair, the number one reason is grey. That means that this clientele exists, is consistent and craves signature color versus matte, blah coverage. So think about what you earn in those posted projects, fun to do, nice to look at but profitable alone? To build a strong book on types of clients alone takes tremendous self-marketing and the right climate, not to mention the longevity and maintenance issues.
Here’s the deal - I truly believe if your sole source of color education is from branded education, then you may understand the spin of the brand more then the reality of “why”. I think through understanding hair color theories in a non-branded way, you are empowered to choose a brand you love, one your philosophy aligns with.
Back to Uncovering Grey -
1) Typically a brand creates a series for grey coverage. Denoted by the letter N, NN and possibly numerically .0/.00. If you looked at the brand color wheel you will see what extra pigment may lean it slightly cool, as combating any unwanted warmth it is what it is, a series made specifically for traditional grey coverage, no magic wand, just a tool. You can use a hammer to smooth the surface of a wall or destroy it depending on who is using it.
Artistically my analogy for seeing too much warmth, too hallow, too matte, which is directly related to formulation and product choice, many issues are resolved understanding this as if you're a child painting in art class.
- if I were painting on a white wall, I know my target color will appear sheerer, and require more coats possibly then the same color on a deeper starting point. Hair Color is the same, the grey hair needs a certain pigment combination, as in the series I spoke about prior. So do you reach for a more pigmented series like NN, maybe, however, these can become too flat.
Back to art, if my formula resulted in a hollow, not covered completely in the end result I need more saturation, but I don’t want flat or matte color. I can achieve this by incorporating a lower level G / .3 ( Gold) Series into my formula. I now can achieve more rounded coverage (eliminating the cool hollow tones) without flat coverage. If you're still with me here’s why - a deeper Gold series still has more coolness then a lighter Natural series. In value (level) deeper shades in hair color become deeper by adding more primary which would create cooler tones. You can not adjust something that is too matte, to be warmer, unless the proportions were flipped and the matte shade is added in a small amount, an adjustment I call those additions.
Color categories are so outdated in our language it drives me nuts. Clients, and some colorists, think about the health of hair in relation to words like Permanent- Semi - Demi etc.... I completely understand it’s our language but if it creates a stumbling block for you try using Lift Color and Non-Lift Color. Here’s all I will say in the artistic perspective - have you ever had a situation where temporary color is not able to be removed? That’s a stain on the hairs fabric, so are you staining for durability or are you driving? Resistant hair tends to repel moisture because of its coarse texture. Think about when water hits it as you start to shampoo. To truly cover the grey it needs to penetrate (drive) which is maximized using Lift Color - Permanent Color. Blending with other options like traditional demi or semi can be great if you and your client expectations are fulfilled
Use the same concept to create a beautiful red, golden or copper tone on grey, unpigmented hair. Add a deeper Gold, in a small % of formula to balance the brown out while not getting a brighter scalp area. If your midshaft and ends are browner then target and you see “Hot Roos” you need to canvas cleanse those first to brighten and balance.
Remember - All color, colors grey hair. Natural coverage on grey hair means you most likely reach for your tool to achieve that - Natural Series. Resistant grey you may use NN or keep a more natural end result by adding a deeper Gold. Shades of bright may need more saturation but to avoid brownout, incorporate a deeper golden shade into your formula.
On the same page, let’s think about our salt and pepper, especially male clients who want no warmth. Why use a Natural series at all. I find a combination of 6 Level Ash Tones with a small amount of a level 3 for depth, or a level 10 for lightness my favorite You create more pepper rather then a natural end result Stay low with the developer to not encourage warmth through lift and it’s a killer end result.
There’s so many things to discuss here I look forward to Questions and Conversation from everyone.