How to predict “lift” on your client. No crystal ball needed!
How do we navigate our clients expectations? What if we know they need to be lightened to achieve their desired new hue? But… what if they don’t know it may be challenging to achieve? How can we set the scenario up for success without over promising? Read on to see what a difference can be made by following these three steps - Consult - Predict - Proceed
💫Let me set this up by sharing a quick story.
While preparing for a photo shoot we had our pre determined looks sorted out Casting the perfect model for a dimensional deep rusty red, which during that process we receive comp cards and always ask for a selfie to see how the models current hair looks.
Things were going great during prep untl that “ perfect “ model comes in, new black hair color and all! Remember when casting models typically you do not hire a corrective and unpredictable canvas so now what? What would you do? Pause that thought while you read on….
Consult -
Regardless if it’s a photo shoot, a new client or an existing client, most of the time they have no idea what is entailed in achieving the end result. Do you give them a dissertation on why you can’t create that or maybe just nod and smile hoping the color Gods will smile down too.
Instead take the emphasis off being the “I Can” or “I Can’t” colorist. It’s really about their hair and what it will allow, so start there. There’s a few reasons why you may need to decolonize -
💫 The existing tint is darker than, more vibrant then, or existing tint is duller then desired tone and or level.
Instead you can predict the hairs response in a quick and easy way.
Predict -
💫 “Let’s see what your hair will allow.
For a more accurate read that enables you to involve the client try this.
1) Mix desired lightener with 20 or 30 Volume
2) Apply on a small subsection in the front of the hair. Use a foil (or foils) and be sure to encompass the entire length. I find a slice, rather then weave, works best.
3) Use your blowdryer to heat section up for about 3 minutes.
4) Remove foils and wipe off lightener and then evaluate what happened so you can proceed in your recommendations, while showing the client the strand to communicate.
No magic wand, no crystal ball. Hard facts without an “ish” will now direct how you’ll proceed.
Proceed -
After the canvas read step you may notice a couple of things -
1) The hair barely moved - 🚩there may be another type of pigment on the hair ( henna, metallic or a different technology. You may only have a goal that day of changing the reflection to soften the shade. Lots of times you’ll notice it’s the ends that are “stuck” and had you preceded you’d have a mess.
💫”Once you’ve begun a service you own it!”
2) The hair turned neon pink (or another surprise shade) . 🚩There is typically a direct pigment that has stained the hair. These are hard to remove completely but you can lift and neutralize to begin the journey.
3) The hair moved and is even. Happy day, carry on.
4) Quite often there’s multiple things happening after some lift. Show the client the hair strand to have a more accurate discussion and again you’ve now shifted the scenario. It shows professionalism and saves the integrity of the hair.
💫 Research shows a clients number one concern is the health of their hair.
So how did my story end, back to that. I did the Predict step. I knew she had not had the black color on her hair for long and that would work in my favor.
After the lift assessment her hair moved nicely and evenly. I worked off the existing shade by cleansing the color a bit with a decolorixing mixture. Once I achieved movement I proceeded with my placement and achieved my desired result. Had I not gotten movement in that “read” I would have shifted to an alternative shade.
💫 “When in doubt, a decoloriizing step is always a good way to set up for accurate end results.”